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In this Discussion
- Ammit December 2016
- best friend December 2016
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- DragonRun December 2016
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Questions/discussion on quality improvement
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So I want to start striving for better quality horses. I have a basic understanding of how to achieve this. I know it'll require cutting a lot of horses, mares and stallions both, from my breeding program. I still haven't decided what to do with them though. I don't feel right about allowing them to stay intact and be used for public breeding most likely to newer players since I try to keep my fees cheap.
The mares I will mark and use for embryo/surrogate mares. A lot of the mares are my favorite and will be hard to cull but neccassy.
I do need a few tips on deciding if a mare should be kept with the quality program. Most of them are between 6 and 10 so they have foals i can look at and judge. Most (foals) aren't PTed or papered.
A stallion who has "bad" sons usually has bad daughters too, right?
Some questions on stallions.
An even bred third generation stallion he should be A papered in order to continue breeding?
I have lots of pretty 3rd Gen boys but they are B. Usually the B papered ones have uneven mothers. I'll be removing the dams
Should I keep B papered 3rds for public or just snip them?
I don't use SMA since I'm not upgraded enough but I do use all other free testing. I usually uncheck the auto geld/spay on SAT, should I leave it on now?
Any other tips would be great too----
Barn ID 4953 -
I don't think it is necessarily wrong to keep the lower papered stallions/mares. It might take someone with lower papered horses longer to reach the higher levels, but they can certainly get there in the end. The lower papered horses will cost less, and they MIGHT just pop out a really nice foal (they will probably pop out a WHOLE bunch of 'meh' foals before they do it, but such is life!). Learning what to look for, and what works, and what doesn't is half the fun!
I always think that someone else may have a cross for one of my culled mares/stallions that might work better than what I have. I will always consider if I want my breed name on a horse before I put it up for any type of sale, and I seldom let any of my 'home' bred horses out of my barns unless it is to people I know. If it is a horse I don't want to be considered for AFPT, or it is just a really below par foal, then it gets sold back to the game, with no chance for anyone else to associate it with my barns. I struggle with whether or not to put my better stallions up for breeding, though.
One thing that I have done since I starte playing over here in March is to not even look at the foals when they are born. I just toss them all into a big barn and run GA,MA/SMA and SAT on everything in the barn. The spay/gelds go to auction. Then I allow myself to keep ONE intact colt from each foal crop, and the fillies have to have pretty darned good PT scores to stay intact.
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I breed for an aggressive increase in breeding quality in each generation.
Mares that you decide to remove from your program who are a bit older might make great surrogate mares if you're going to be doing a fair amount of embryo breeding. Younger mares with decent PTs you should probably snip and add to your show herd so they can make lots of money for you in the show bonus. I tend to snip and auction lower gen mares, snip and keep upper gens as show ponies. Remember that your recipient mare list starts from the bottom of the alphabet instead of the top, so mark those mares with a Z at the front of their names for easy use in the Embryo Transfer Lab!
If your mares are papered, you need to decide on a paper cut off line for each generation. I always cull Yellow mares. I expect Foundations and gen 2 to be Red, but have some Blue at gen 2. My gen 3s and 4s must be Blue. I hope to start producing Golds at gen 5 eventually but I probably have 6 or 8 months of work to get there. If you can afford to PT lots of foals, having a cut of for Average Foal PT for each generation can also be helpful. I start evaluating mares on their AFPT after they are Papered and re-evaluate them every season. If they drop below my cut off, they come out of the herd.
Another way I personally cull, in a much more relaxed way, is if I have a mare who is producing mostly snipped foals. A mare with 5 or 6 out of 7 or 8 foals that are snipped and who also has an AFPT that is skimming my cut off line may be culled, while one who has lots of snips but a really high AFPT for her generation is more likely to stay in the program because she's making me lots of great show ponies. I make notes on my mare pages about snipped foals...its very time consuming but it helps me keep a check on this.
As for your stallions...
I personally require my gen 2 stallions to paper B (A From boosted lines) and to compare AGA one of my boosted line gen 2 A stallions. My gen 3 stallions must be A and compare superior to a gen 2 A. My gen 4s are A (and now one *Star!) who are superior to the gen 3s. I would love to pull my gen 4 herd up so that they compare AGA a low *Star. Gen 5 and up must be *Stars.
Does a stallion who has "bad" sons also have bad daughters? Well....I breed almost exclusively in pastures with the full pasture bonus and generally in fairly large batches so that my boys are putting 30-50 foals on the ground at a time. Of those 30 to 50 foals, I might get one or two colts who are superior to their dad. I assume I'm getting a similar number of fillies that are really superior breeders. Lets say I got 25 colts and 25 fillies from a stallion one season. I'm hoping there are 4 or 5 total superior foals. With my pasture bonus in my foundation and gen 2 pastures, I expect to get probably another 30 total foals that are AGA or very slightly superior to their parents, and then the final 15 who are worse. Those numbers get less favorable as I go up the generations because my mare herds haven't caught up with my stallions yet. But we are getting there!
If you have a stallion who isn't producing ANY superior colts, I would hazard a bet his fillies aren't any good either. But remember those superior fillies are few and far between just like the colts and are much much harder to identify!
For your B gen 3s....Before I could afford to test everything at will, I know I let some inferior colts slip out into the general population...now that I can afford to test, only colts that live up to my own high standards are sold intact. My question for you would be this--lets say it's 4 months down the road and you've made some good strides in improving the quality of your herd. Are you now going to look at the offspring of your colts that you know are inferior and be less inclined to buy them because you know they are likely to not live up to your new standards? If the answer is yes, snip those bad boys. No point letting other people breed foals that are inferior to what you want in your herd with your own stallions.
Leave autospay on for everything! Why would you want an inferior breeding horse ever? My one exception to this rule is I Consistency test my best pasture foals (from the email we aren't currently getting) with auto spay off. I'm willing to spend the GMT to fix that in my best pasture foals. Other than that, everything gets auto snipped!
Oh--and use Gelding Papering if you have it! If you have a mare throwing lots of colts snipped by GA, it can be helpful to know if she's throwing Showable Only colts. I snip all mares that throw a Showable Only since it's two whole paper levels below the lowest paper you should be breeding for (B in gen 2s). -
I second Confluences tip on not looking at foals before you test. It helps to not get attached to that colt that has everything you're looking for before he gets snipped by GA.
I color test, GA/SMA, SAT and PT before I look at anything. At that point all I do is deal with the spays and gelds, either auctioning or naming and putting in my show herd. Then I Consistency test and deal with everything else that is snipped (remembering to Gelding paper also!). That's when I start looking at fillies, naming and tattooing or snipping and auctioning. All through this process I'm also snipping and auctioning broodmares.
Finally I Paper my remaining intact colts, snip whatever didn't Paper right. And then it's the elation and despair of comparing. Elation and despair. Why oh why do all the pretty ones get culled??? And then the final step is to open all the intact stallions I have in a particular generation and decide who gets to stay based on the genes they have (and sometimes the genes I can add with GMTs). At this point I am comparing apples to apples because everything I'm looking at has compared at the same level. If I have excess colts, they usually get offered for general sale or if I have a color I know someone is looking for they get privately offered. If they don't get sold, they may go in the public stud barn but most get snipped and added to the show herd after they turn 3 or 4. -
If I am undecided about snipping any foal, I will stash it in a barn and wait til it is 2. Not to see any improvement in the horse, per se, but more to see if I still feel the same way about it a week, or a month later.
In the old days, if you spayed/gelded a horse before they were 6 years old you would get the best bonus. Don't know if that is still true, or was only a WHG thing, but I never worry too much about altering before they are 6. -
It was never a WHG thing either. Gelding as early as possible is always best.
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Need to contact me? Read this first.
http://www.huntandjump.com/forum/discussion/3/how-to-get-help-from-an-administrator -
I don't breed on as large of a scale as Cheers or Confluence but I have brought some of their rules/standards into my program this year. It really makes a difference in your program and because of that I am completely restructuring my breeding program for the next year and I will be much harder on culling. That being said, it's not easy. I learned the valuable lesson of running all my colts/fillies through their testing before I even look at them. My first crop of foals at the beginning of the month produced this guy.
I was so excited. I held my breathe as I sent him through his testing and he passed SMA/SAT and has a PT score of 12.2. Sounds pretty good, until I papered him. His sire is a *Star papered stallion and he only papered A. He tested as good as his sire, but in the end it's just not good enough. Gelding him is painful for me but it's what needs to be done. He'll be a pretty show pony and hopefully get lots of points. By leaving the auto/spay geld on and not looking at any of them until they pass all their testing eliminates a lot of heartbreak. The way I see it is, if the game says they aren't good enough then I shouldn't be breeding them anyway regardless of how pretty and shiny they might be.
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Whew should've read this sooner!
Okay, so I'm going stash just a few stallions with lower papering for another month or two. I probably won't even touch them anyway.
I don't make enough hbs yet to compare stallions, 8k a pop is just to much at the moment. And with no SMT I'll have to guess until I can get a higher upgrade.
I've been marking all mares and stallions that I don't want to breed and will go back and keep a handful of mares for surrogates and spay/geld all the excess. My favorite thing to do while breeding is check the new babies out but I always continue free testing. I'll switch to testing before peeking though.
I don't fully understand how mare papering works but I will paper them anyway and ask for details once I start picking through keep and throw mares
Now I've got some sorting to do!----
Barn ID 4953 -
Sounds like fun. This has been a great read. It gives me some ideas.
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Same here. I am new here (10 days) and have learned a lot from these forums. I just went through and dropped my yearling 2nd gen B papered Stallions down to 1. Of course the best one (comparison test) ended up being the plain chestnut. :(
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@DragonRun Don't be put off by the plain colors, especially at the beginning. I've been playing for almost a calendar year now. At first I didn't understand and tried to breed for the coolest colors possible. Then had to completely change once I learned. All my original lines (after the rehaul) were very plain, but they got me the results I wanted. Now that I've got a decent show pony herd built up and my 1-4 gen lines established, its much easier to afford the cool colors. Plus its easier to just add color in later than to do a complete rehaul of your lines.Thanked by 1DragonRun
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100% agree with Lacy. It's much easier to start with the bland horses and kick up you quality before trying to add in color later. As I mentioned before, I spent a good 8 months playing with nothing but color and random generation. After playing for over a year I have to do an almost complete barn flush----
Barn ID 4953 -
At this point I am in the "no good horse is of a bad colour" camp, so am not really paying attention to colour except to try and avoid the lethals. Sometimes I get some very flashy and colourful horses, they hurt the hardest when they don't pass testing. In the end I want the best quality regardless of colour.